Seed Starting Guide

The Prep Work: Choosing Your Setup

Before the first seed hits the soil, pick up some gear!

Starting Medium: We recommend using a sterile, soil-less seed starting mix (like peat or coco coir) rather than heavy garden soil or potting mix to prevent "damping off" (fungal issues). Or make your own with:

• One part coconut coir
• One part perlite
• One part compost

Containers: We prefer 1020 cell trays with inserts, soil blocks, or biodegradable pots, but any container will do! This includes milk cartons, yogurt cups, or plastic berry trays.

Heat Mats: While not strictly required, heating mats significantly boost germination by mimicking the natural warmth seeds need to sprout. This is especially true for heat-loving crops like peppers and tomatoes, which germinate best at 75 degrees (F) or higher. Placing a mat under your trays provides the consistent bottom heat necessary for success when starting seeds indoors during colder months. Heat mats can be removed once germination occurs.

Humidity Domes: We prefer 1020 domes with our trays, but plastic wrap can be used in a pinch. Humidity domes can be removed once germination occurs, otherwise too much moisture may cause fungal disease like damping off. 

Grow Lights: We use Active Grow LED lights, but there are hundreds of others on the market! If you’re sowing indoors or in an area away from direct sun, grow lights are a must. While many seeds may germinate in darkness, they need plenty of direct sun once they germinate to promote strong early growth. Lack of sunlight will lead to weak stems and floppy seedlings.

Labels: Every tray looks the same after 48 hours, so don't forget to label your seeds! We like these plastic plant labels. They come with a marker and are waterproof (a lifesaver!)

The Planting Process

Timing

Timing is everything when starting seeds! To ensure a successful harvest, keep these factors in mind:

• Know your frost dates: Always check your local "last frost date" before planting! This changes based on your location. Sowing too early can lead to crop loss from late-season temperature drops.
• Start indoors for a head-start: Many varieties benefit from being started indoors 4–8 weeks before the last frost to maximize the growing season. For crops that take a long time to produce, like peppers and tomatoes, starting indoors is preferred. Root crops like carrots and beets, however, should be sown where they're going to grow, as they don't tend to transplant well.
• Watch the calendar: Sowing too late can prevent plants from maturing before your season ends. Check seed packets or site descriptions for specific "days to maturity." 
• Use succession planting: Instead of sowing everything at once, space your plantings out by several weeks. This creates a steady, continuous harvest rather than a single, overwhelming crop.

Preparation

To prepare your soil for planting, focus on these steps:

• Prep the medium: Fill your trays or containers with a dedicated seed-starting mix. Press the surface down gently to level it, but avoid compacting it, as seedlings need plenty of airflow and drainage to thrive.
• Moisten and amend: Lightly water the soil before sowing to ensure an even start. For outdoor beds, clear away weeds and stones, then mix in compost to improve the soil texture.
• Space for success: Follow the spacing guides on your seed packets to prevent overcrowding and disease. If you're unsure of germination rates, sow a few extra seeds close together and "thin" them later by keeping only the strongest starts.

Depth

To ensure your seeds have the best start, follow these simple planting depth and density guidelines:

• The "Rule of Two":  A good rule of thumb is to plant seeds at a depth 2x to 3x their width. Larger seeds require deeper holes, while tiny seeds often only need a light dusting of soil or to be pressed onto the surface.
  
• Maximize your odds: Sow two to three seeds per hole or cell. This guarantees a higher success rate; once they sprout, simply "thin" the area by keeping the strongest seedling and removing the others. Here's a great guide on separating seedlings. 
  • Pro Tip: Don't put all your eggs in one basket! If it's your first time growing a new variety, don't plant the whole pack at once in case something doesn't go as planned! Save some of the seeds in case you need to try again.

Moisture

Once you sow your seeds, proper moisture management is key to helping them sprout:

• Gentle initial watering: Immediately after sowing, saturate the top layer of soil using a fine mist or a spray bottle. Avoid a strong stream of water, which can wash away or bury delicate seeds too deeply.
• Maintain consistency: Keep the soil evenly moist—think "wrung-out sponge"—rather than soaking wet.
• Prevent dry spells: Never let the soil dry out completely, as even a brief lack of moisture can permanently stunt or kill a germinating seeds
• Fertilize: Fertilizer is not needed during seed starting! This is reserved for after germination occurs and your new plants start to develop roots. 

Humidity

Using a germination dome is a great way to create a stable and humid environment for your new seeds:

• Trap heat and humidity: A dome or cover keeps the soil moist and warm, which speeds up the germination process.
• Prevent mold: Be sure to lift the cover for a few minutes daily to circulate fresh air and prevent fungal growth.
• Know when to uncover: As soon as you see sprouts and the first "true leaves" appear, remove the dome entirely so the plants can receive direct light and better airflow.

Light and Temperature 

Seedlings ideally need 14 to 16 hours of light daily. If you’re sowing in front of a window, rotate your trays so all sides get equal amounts of sunlight. Optimal temperatures vary depending on the variety. Once seeds germinate, 70-75 degrees (F) will help most seedlings grow best!

Transition

When your seedlings reach a few inches in height, they are ready for the final transition to larger pots or the garden:

• The transition: Move seedlings once they have outgrown their starter cells and are sturdy enough to handle.
• Hardening off: To prevent transplant shock, gradually expose plants to outdoor conditions over 7–14 days. This slow adjustment to wind and direct sun protects the work you’ve put into starting them.
  • Here is an example:
    • Day 1-2: 1 hour in full shade/shelter.
    • Day 3-4: 2-3 hours with dappled sunlight and mild wind.
    • Day 5-7: Gradually increase to full sun and overnight stays (if temperatures allow).
• Click here for a great video explaining the process of hardening off!

Troubleshooting- What Went Wrong?

• Leggy Seedlings: Usually caused by a lack of light; the plants are "stretching" to find it. 
• Mold on Soil: Often a sign of overwatering or poor airflow. Consider using an oscillating fan. 
• Yellowing Leaves: This usually signals it’s time to start a half-strength liquid fertilizer once the "true leaves" appear.
• Poor germination: All varieties have different germination times. Temperature, moisture and depth can all significantly affect this! Specifically with peppers, the hotter the pepper, the longer is takes (up to 30 days)!